25 years in the classical music industry as a record producer has given me a deep insight into the sensitivities of performers and I aim to bring that out in my images, whether it is a moment of calm composure or artistic anguish. My clients range from individual performers to symphony orchestras and I have built up strong relationships with many of the UK’s top concert halls through the use of specially prepared silent and remote controlled cameras - especially the X System from Fuji.
This is balanced by a lifelong love of black & white imagery that is now finding a voice in the form of infra red photography. Using a specially modified cameras I capture scenes entirely composed of invisible infra red light, producing an alternative view of reality – beyond visible light.
I also run workshops and seminars throughout the world with TravelLIGHT and with Create-Away
If you would like to find out more please visit my website at www.simonweir.com
Hi Simon, seems we have more than photography in common, that is music. I used to sing in a male choir and once had the privilege to record in Abbey Road, we were in the old Beatles studio. With that out of the way to my reason of messaging. As a keen amateur photography I am looking to convert a neglected Fuji X-E1 to IR, I have tried to use if with supplementary filters having obtained a couple of filters namely a 680 nm and an 850 nm, with the intention of having a 590 conversion. My question is regarding WB, I am getting conflicting advise from varying people some saying it is not important (I know that is foolish), but my biggest puzzle is how to set WB, some say of a white card, some grey some off grass, any advice would be greatly accepted. Out of interest as you use a Fuji conversion what are your favourite lenesfor IR?
ReplyDeleteRegards,
Geoff Howard
Hi Geoff - always good to meet another muso!
ReplyDeleteI use an 830nm converted X-E1 with a custom white balance created from brightly lit green grass - the fresher and greener the better. Fill the frame and slightly defocus before taking the custom WB - should produce a nearly B&W image in camera.
Lower filter strengths should work on the same basis but will produce more false colour in the image. You may need to play with the exposure a fair bit to get the camera to accept the WB and you will need to repeat this whenever you change filter.
Getting the WB right is VERY important in IR - more so than in conventional photography. As the filter strength gets lower you are pushing more and more light into the red channel (both visible and IR) - an auto white balance will give you exposures based on the average value across the red/green/blue channels which means that it is very easy to clip the red channel and loose highlight detail. A custom white balance aims to even out the light distribution across the three channels and reduces the risk of clipping but you should always check your RGB histogram to be sure the exposure is good.
Lens wise I shoot almost everything with the Fujinon 14mm f/2.8 prime - it is a fabulous performer in IR and really like the wide angle aesthetic.
All best - Simon